Road Blocks

It began on a Thursday in Sandy Ground and quickly spread to Marigot, Quarter d’Orleans, and Grand Case. When Saturday came, we cleared out of Simpson Bay Resort and dropped off my parents at the airport. We made our first attempt to reach Orient Bay via Marigot. After the SuperU, we encountered the first block. From there we could see that the roundabout with the statue of the lady who used to hold the lantern, now wearing a bright orange scarf, was completely closed off. We turned back. Thankfully, friends took us in overnight and Sunday morning we regrouped.

After much online discussion we decided to venture via the Oyster Pond route. It was there our friends Chloe and Thierry met us in order to lead us back through to Orient. The Christmas winds made the sea dance with white froth as we hugged the eastern coast of the island. A group of horses cavorted beside Coralita Beach. All was clear until we almost reached the old bus stop for tourists to take pictures of iguanas. The road was littered in intervals with burned out cars and other smoldering debris. We carefully picked our way through each obstacle. By the stadium, we drove around the charred remains of a large wooden spindle then turned right onto a road that parallels the main artery around the island. Travel was slow. Past the small circle, a large truck rigging successfully crossed the entire width of the road. The cars ahead followed the new ruts carved along the side of the road. Our car bottomed out on a protruding rock and in a very rare moment, Bill swore. Broken glass, the lingering smell of burnt rubber, coupled with the stench of sewage and overflowing garbage bins, completed the war zone-like atmosphere. Flint Michigan needs to take some notes. How long should people in civilized countries put up with poisoned drinking water? How long should islanders be abused by crippling, third world living conditions? Irma was two years ago. The far away government in France has made decisions for the island without any say. The PPRN leaves those along the coast without roofs or permission to rebuild their homes. What would westerners do in such conditions? They complain that islanders shouldn’t be violent, after all, it’s all about them; the tourist. Travel where you like, don’t come back, but do not in the same breath, claim to be so supportive of the island and the locals. Once again it is the poor and marginalized, mainly black in this situation who are taking the brunt of selfish, land grabbing, colonialist opportunists and yes, they are usually white. The “right” channels haven’t worked so what should they do? Should they lie back and just take it?

The final road block ironically was by the gendarme station at the edge of town. Some young guys created a checkpoint we had to talk our way through….luckily. No doubt one of those young men saw his chance to take advantage of the situation, while in other places locals helped talk drivers safely through the blocks.

Monday morning brought with it military help to clear the roads. Boated-in equipment was not allowed into Dutch port.

Way to work together guys.

As quickly as roads were cleared they were again rebuilt. We suffered without baguettes as the first shortage was felt. We’re not suffering at all in this protected neck of the woods.

Are there any winners? — No, not even for those most affected. So who does the world revolve around? Is it only “one love” when our time on the island serves only our appetites?