Orient Beach has seen many changes in between hurricanes Luis and Irma. There were only a couple of beach bars and the rest of the beach was wide open. It was in those earlier years that Orient Beach nudists roamed freely the entire length of the Bay. It has been more recent that clothing optional went to topless only. Now nudity is relegated to early morning walks and the infamous yellow umbrella section. Large signs by Pedro’s warned that clothing must be worn beyond that point. Conversely, Club Orient had their own sign to warn of nudity and absolutely no photography! So the yellow umbrellas became a sanctuary of freedom. Those earlier years were quite eye-opening for our children and parents.

About ten or so years ago more beach bars popped up and the beach became more and more crowded. There wasn’t much room for people who opted to bring their own chairs or blankets. In fact, some of the beach bars were down right rude about public beach access. Cruise ship tours delivered day visitors by the bus load to predetermined locations along Orient. It was frustrating for us regulars to compete for lunch seating at our favorite spots. Some places even went so far as to have so much reserved seating, we had to go elsewhere. Buffets made things easier for cruisers and restaurants, but not any other beach goers. I’ve cruised before and dislike being herded about. I also realize for some, this is the only way to see a new island. For me it served as a list of places I might want to go back to……we keep coming back to St. Martin alone though.

Last high season we met friends who cruised to the island for the day. We happily escorted them on a personal whirlwind tour. First stop was the bakery in Quarter D’Orleans for chocolate croissants. From there we headed to Le Galion and then Aloha. We wanted them to experience the beauty and the joy of being around the fun people we love so much. Most cruisers have to settle for a different kind of a day. We’ve noticed when they’re on the beach, they’re not smiling and do not seem overly impressed with our beautiful beach. Some are wearing shoes and socks and miss the luxurious feel of the soft sand between their toes. Some have heard about the nudie section and walk down to check things out. They giggle and gawk. Mind you, Club Oer’s are a friendly bunch and have sometimes offered shots as a challenge to join in…..some do!

This year is different. So far the Club O section is the only place on the entire beach where a chair and umbrella can be had….yellow though it be. The kinds of cruise ship people that come, do so by taxi. Some may still gawk, some join in, and the rest rent the chairs along side of their undressed neighbors. It’s an interesting mix of people enjoying a beautiful day on the beach together. Seems like we’ve come full circle. Many sure hope so. Troubling reports of once again dividing clothed and unclothed are causing a stir on the beach, while only a few days ago there wasn’t a problem sharing it.

As soon as Chez Leandra can they too will be offering shade and lounging. It was encouraging to see people milling about buying a drink, taking pictures, or shopping from Luis. The “bag ladies” were there selling souvenirs too. The crowd by Club O has grown quickly. There are plans to bring back the volleyball court. First there will be more clean up. They want to make sure no one steps on anything sharp that may still be buried in the sand. We are patiently excited. Meanwhile, live and let live or bring a beach towel.

After a long day exploring more areas of the island, we made a sharp turn at the Pic Paradise sign and headed to Loterie Farm. The parking lot was full, a good sign. They recently reopened the pool and bar for guests to come and enjoy along with zip lining. The stone base of the former restaurant stands unchanged with nothing above it. A ramp leads to a reception area where we were directed to enter the pool and bar area. Guests were lounging beside the main pool while we made our way to the bar. It sits above the bathroom and shop area in the same open air style the restaurant once had. We climbed the stairs and sat overlooking the pool and cabanas. They are still working on them but quite a few were already in use. Serene music wafted through the air as a refreshing breeze cooled our bodies and minds. It was late afternoon and the iguanas claimed branches high up in the trees to catch the sun’s warmth. They’ve done a beautiful job cleaning the property. Trees were drastically pruned by trapped whirlwinds during Irma. New shoots and leaves have emerged quickly, hinting that this will again be a lush hideaway. New plants add to the rainforest look of the area. A large tree has a lone bench on top of a platform with its own wooden suspension bridge attaching to the bar area. It probably would not be a good idea to drink out there though. The beauty of the bridge is enhanced by having only a guide rope instead of railings.

Bill, naturally, headed into the pool and enjoyed a swim. He also explored the waterfalls leading to the main pool and found several other small pools. At the top was one that was jetted like a hot tub. The main pool also has a waterfall into a fountain containing a lovely water sculpture. The sound of the water flowing from pool to pool lulls visitors into complete relaxation. I enjoyed these surroundings as I lounged in the tree house. There was a menu with some light fare, but we weren’t hungry.

We chatted with the William, the owner, who shared some of his many stories with us. His is a story of resilience, courage, and dedication to his employees. Not coming back was not an option. So many people were expecting Loterie Farm to come back. They smartly and resourcefully recycled wood all found on the property. They’ve done an incredible job. William is inspired with plans and ideas for the future. It was an unwelcome way to remake and reinvent a new direction for this special place. Each business owner faces similar challenges and questions. We are glad he has chosen to remake, rebuild, and reopen.

Can’t wait to go back again!

On Orient Beach Chez Leandra has their bar open. Zellman scavenged wood from the debris and rebuilt. He has running water and electricity. Soon a container will be deposited on the slab of the former location. There will be food and working toilet. What a positive, can do, attitude in the face of so many losses.

We enjoyed a drink and listened to his stories. The things he and his wife found funny, you and I, our jaws would drop. Having not had to live with continued adversity has made me weak and him strong.

The aftermath of the storm was worse than the storm itself – is what we keep hearing. Without electricity and water, windows and doors, they survived. They shifted to sleep during the day and battling mosquitoes by night. Taking turns they fanned their young son in order to keep him comfortable. The French military was good to them as they received lobster and other food they could grill. Another nuisance during that time was a rat. The rat would wander into the open home searching for food. The fridge was empty and supplies stacked on top of it. At night they could hear the scratching of the rat attempting to climb and steal their stash. On a separate occasion, his wife heard a noise and shined a flashlight that revealed the rat dragging away her purse by its strap. She had some sweets within it for her son. She didn’t fight the cat-sized rat, she only watched in both horror and amusement. They would make small fires, burning bush or debris to try to deter the rodent’s visits.

She had to ration out her insulin medication. Together they would walk the beach in hopes of balancing out her blood sugar. Food rations tended to be high carbohydrates causing her to feel sluggish as she desperately craved vegetables. Luckily the military was able to help her get much needed medication.

He told us of a friend who had access to a generator after the storm. While he was in the shower he could hear it running when he noticed the power was out again. Maybe it had come unplugged. After his shower he went outside to inspect only to find a running weed-whacker where his generator had been. How clever of the thief to go to all that trouble to create a distraction!

Some of their stories were sad. All of their pets perished during the storm. They had been together in a secured shed on the property with food and water. The door did not hold and the dogs were sucked out into the wind. The family ended up huddled in the bathroom. The only found the one pet alongside the house.

His car had an air conditioner catapulted through the back window. Looking over at his neighbors totaled car he realized he had much to be thankful for. (He would have won the island car prize for using a shower curtain, a most creative option, to cover his missing window).

Looking in their faces you see what the SXM strong attitude is all about. So many losses and yet hope has sprung into action. This is how so many think and live their lives. I am humbled by the lessons they teach and realize I have so much more to learn.

Off the main route we turned to the right, our usual way into the backside of Orient Bay. Instead we went straight toward Le Galion. The roadside serves as a stark reminder of the powerful force of the recent hurricane. There is no longer a butterfly farm or horse stables. Debris from the devastation from Orient Beach gathered in heaps beside the road. Bits and pieces of wood from the colorful cabanas along with roofs and furniture from the wooden cabins of Club O lie mangled together.

The storm was no joke. Several people have said the same thing, “if it had lasted as long as Maria, there would be nothing left of St. Martin.”

Thankfully, there’s quite a lot left. The French side was definitely impacted more than the Dutch side. Orient and Grand Case are coming back although not like before. We’ve observed that in every area of the island they have one thing in common, community. Spaces and places where people can gather and share a drink and their experiences and most importantly, their stories. So many stories that there isn’t enough paper to hold all the words. Music helps to set the mood and create a vibe calling people to assemble. It’s happening on the French side. They know this high season will be tough but are making the best of it. Alamanda on Orient Beach has a poolside bar with some light fare on the menu. They are open to the public. We went there after yoga on the beach. In the Village there are several restaurants and bars to choose from. Up the hill La Plantation offers a party every Sunday.

Last night we ate at Spiga. They are as amazing as always with fabulous gastronomy. The configuration has changed to include a lovely bar all along the right hand side of the dinning room. The staff was warm and welcoming and we enjoyed ourselves thoroughly. We drove down the Boulevard and noticed Bistro Caraibes and La Villa had quite a few guests. We’ve already eaten at one of the Lolos. They provide large portions for the prices they charge. We’ve also  been to Les Bains to watch the sunset and stayed for live music. It is becoming the new Calmos Café. The lighting along the street is enough to feel secure walking from car to eatery. There may be less choices but they are open and ready to serve. We are looking forward to Harmony Nights, we heard there will be four in March.

We love these iconic, picturesque areas of the island and strive to support not only these but all the communities on St. Martin that we come in contact with.

 

Families of tourists and locals frequented this protected cove to enjoy the lake-like calmness of the water, gently lapping at the shore line. Small children would run in and out without a care while parents looked on from nearby. Volleyball courts stood at the ready under the shade of a palm grove. Patrick’s Tropical Wave was busy setting up umbrellas with lounge chairs. The restaurant bustled with patrons enjoying meals, drinks and conversation. Next door, paddle boards could be rented for a nominal fee. Further down was another shack offering water sport rentals and a quick boat ride for surfers to get out into the curls beyond the protective coral barrier.

Sometimes locals could be seen fishing whether by boat or along the beach. In the other direction, a giant blue floating dock sectioned off an area for swimming lessons for local children. The curve of the bay continued around in a U shape to face all the activity on the rest of the beach. Sea grapes created natural cabanas where small groups set up towels and picnics. The cove finished off as a peninsula jutting out against the open sea. When waves crashed into the very end part, a hole in the stone forced the water to spout out like the blow hole of a whale.

Not anymore.

All these memories haunt us now. What made Le Galion very special while offering shelter from the wind, has changed into a new reality of rooted up trees and toppled palms, rubble, and the most shocking – a new shape. In between where the swimming lessons took place and the Tropical Wave umbrellas ended, the beach is now divided with a gouged out area. Here a new channel has been carved connecting the bay to the salt pond. No more strolls along the entire bay. No more allowing the children to explore the shallow waters edge. No, this newly hewn section is deep, chest high for an adult and it is too wide to jump across.

We sat on a fallen palm eating a sandwich taking it all in. We were surrounded by raw beauty. Off in the distance St. Barths still rises out of the ocean; a blue gray color. Anchored in the Bay close to shore were two fishing boats. A couple of families were set up on the beach. The children were running in the sand. A local sat under a tarp canopy set up in familiar fashion. We were not alone, although the place has a solitary feel. There’s an affinity attached to Le Galion. With a bit of clean up and a willingness to once again rebuild, it can become a thriving place with the vitality that its visitors bring.

2017… seems like just yesterday it was being ushered in with fireworks over the lagoon on Orient Beach. Loud music wafted up the hill from the parties below. New Year’s day found them passed out on beach lounge chairs. We are usually low key and wake up in time to wish our family well.

This year there will not be any fireworks. This will not dampen the planned festivities around the island though. We watched as trucks pulled up to Alamanda with lights and speakers in preparation for the live musical party they’ll be hosting. Our French friends invited us to join them but we are staying Dutch side. Our plans include a three-course dinner and an eighty’s dance party, costumes are optional.

Many people are looking forward to putting a period on 2017. It began with promise of change or new beginnings, which was embraced as hopeful. So many events have taken place this year with nature especially taking center stage. Extreme weather, war and political meddling have all left their mark on peoples lives. In 2018 we will continue to feel those repercussions. We all hope for a bright future – for ourselves. It feels like a perfect storm is brewing. It is the easiest to see on St. Martin, since it is only thirty-six square miles.

On the Dutch side the dump that fills the great salt pond burns emitting toxic fumes. There seems to be little governmental concern for the health and well-being of the people or the environment. (Though we have heard there are remedies finally coming. We’ll see) On the French side plans to build on an archeological site proceed.

Rules and regulations seem to burden inhabitants while lining the pockets of those in power with money so they can enjoy their lives. Those in power have forgotten they are public servants. Looks to me more like they serve themselves and those who line their pockets while the masses feel the weight.

We can see it easily here with a drive around the island and speaking with the locals. The Dutch side has no unemployment benefits, no job, no pay. Imagine renting a space without a roof, wondering if and when there will ever be one again. Does the landlord have insurance or money to make the necessary repairs? The only appliance that works is the stove. The electrical system is ruined and the refrigerator or maybe the lights, air conditioner (if there was one) or fan do not function.Those with windows and doors find themselves blessed. Those who are lucky enough to have a good employer have been also given food and sometimes shelter.

Both sides have so many rules and regulations, while insurance companies are on a “don’t call us, we’ll call you” mode. So many people are in limbo, waiting. Businesses often use their own monies in order to open again. Owners on the French side do not receive the government assistance that their employees do. And for those employees now without work, the stipend isn’t enough to live on and people are happy to work. Jobs are scarce.

2018 begins in the height of the tourist season. Resorts are double and triple dipping. They collect insurance, timeshare fees, and assessment fees all the while re-renting undamaged rooms at top dollar. Some, we’ve heard, fired their staff. It is unclear whether they’ve received a severance package even if the newspaper reported that they had.

Cruise ships have been returning bringing bus loads of people to Kim Sha Beach, the new temporary Orient Beach. The French have nothing more to accommodate such tours. Buses and taxis would bring many visitors over to Orient, but not as of yet. There are only two actual beach bars, the Perch Lite on the clothing optional section of the beach and Chez Leandra. The latter will be providing food soon but…there are no chairs. Hopefully Phillipsburg is busier.

The future looks bright for some. The four-month mark is around the corner, though with so many waiting for the basics. The new zip line on the former Emilio Wilson Estate, and before that, a sugar plantation profiting from slave labor. Emillio’s great grandmother is buried on the property where they buried their slaves. His vision was for the people of the island to use some of the land as parks and soccer fields. He entrusted the government with this task. The house was to be a museum displaying things from days of old. His own people in the government sold everyone out to make the zip line deal. He and his brother have nice villas. The profits will go back to the cruise ships. Once again the people and environment lose. The land at the summit had been untouched for almost two hundred years. Not anymore.

It is rumored notaries on the French side have falsified documents and possibly stealing land and properties from locals. We heard Pierre Beauperthuy was murdered possibly for his land. He had an old house with all things St. Martin for the public to visit. His family was given the land by Napoleon.

Piraterring has changed its looks but is alive and well.

It is easier to see it here and we, of course, so want to help out. To right the wrongs, to smooth the way for all people to be able to survive and thrive. This is after all what true community is. Even so, we can leave to our warm, comfortable life where we come from and continue to be complacent about both countries, and the plight of our land and neighbors. We, so far, have escaped their indignities. We’ve learned life lessons from — and changed our “world view” from our connection to the people of SXM.

May we continue to change in 2018 and beyond until we recognize we are all brothers and sisters here to share and enjoy the same planet. The “haves” and “have-nots” were invented through colonization and privatization. We are all God’s children. In the beginning it was dominion, not domination. We yearn to get back to “the garden” where there was plenty and peace.